Saturday, December 12, 2009

Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch

Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch
Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch
Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch
Limited Edition of 1,941 Pieces

This ninth Omega model in the Museum Collection bears the appellation “Milestone 41”, a curious name to call a replica of model CK 2080 that was originally launched in 1938. The ‘milestone’ part of the description has me intrigued as well. Does it refer to the 50,000 CHF price paid at Antiquorum 2007 for the 1941 delivered watch that inspired this homage piece? (see first picture above) 

No matter, because the decision to honour this essentially military chrono-tachy-telemeter piece was an excellent choice. Said to be popular with high-ranking officers during WW2, the original was powered by a calibre 33.3 CHRO T1 manufactured by Omega’s stable-mate, Lemania. Acquired by Omega during the Great depression, Lemania movements went on to power some of the most famous chronographs Omega ever produced.

The original olive button chronograph was dapper looking to say the least. The reset pusher was part of the functionality of the crown, and the case, with triple mobile lugs attached to a nicely chamfered hood, gave the watch a blue-blooded, military feel. The design conjures up dreams of waxed mustaches, flying leathers, being behind the joystick of a Spitfire, dropping a load on those confounded Jerries and honking and hee-hawing over some droll riposte in the officers' mess!

The original 37.5 by 12mm case was made of stainless steel, however Omega has enlarged the case by .5mm and fashioned it out of 18 karat white gold. The Milestone 41 is powered by a hand-wound Omega calibre 3202, a work-up of the base Piguet calibre 1283 and similar to the engine that powers number three in the Museum Collection, the Officers Watch. It is a COSC certified chronometer fitted out with Omega’s proprietary co-axial escapement system.

I would have liked to have seen the Lemania-based calibre 1861 under the bonnet of this piece as it would have maintained a link with the Lemania heritage of the original. Tough as old boots, the calibre 1861 is a direct descendant of the famous calibre 321, and to compare it to the finer and more delicate Piguet-based 3203 would be like standing a builder’s labourer alongside a ballet dancer. But, I suppose this illustrious member of the Omega Museum Collection will spend more time in its elegant box than bouncing about in a theatre of war as did the original and so robustness isn’t part of the brief.

The dial is a marvel, varnished black, replicating the original telemetric scale on its first outer ring. It features a minute track on its second outer ring and a “snail” tachymetric scale on the inner ring based on 1000 units per hour. The hour indexes and 12 and 6 numbers are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Comparing old with new, it has to be said that Omega has faithfully replicated the most alluring features of the vintage piece, and that is very much part of the attraction of the Milestone 41. While in no way a daily banger, this museum collection wonder will look as good in an opera box as it would in a Wall Street bull pit.

Click on the photographs for enlarged view

Friday, October 9, 2009

Omega Seamaster LiquidMetal Planet Ocean

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal
Omega Seamaster Liquid Metal

The new Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal ® watch has been launched to mark the 1948 birth year of this, one of Omegas most enduring marques. Produced in only 1,948 pieces, it also attracts a limited edition price of above $6000.00 USD. Orders for this model have been strong and the rumour is that precedence is being given to Omega boutiques, a number of smaller authorised dealerships having little hope of securing multiple pieces.
Liquidmetal® is a new class of alloy that behaves similar to plastics, in that it is able to be heat formed in a very similar way to thermo-plastics, but offers the advantages of high tensile strength, superlative resistance to corrosion and very desirable anti-wearing characteristics. The material was created after many years of research by a team at the California Institute of Technology.

To read up on Liquidmetal®, click here.

Omega is believed to be one of the first manufacturers to use the material to produce parts of a watch case, and this is exciting to Omegaphiles because it’s reminiscent of the ingenuity and creative output during Omega’s first halcyon period of the 1950s and 60s.

The metallic glass alloy is made up from zirconium, titanium, copper, nickel and beryllium and can be formed into thicknesses of as little as a tenth of a millimetre, making it an ideal material to create flawless union of the numbers and scaling to the ceramic parts of the Planet Ocean bezel. The black of the ceramic bezel matches perfectly the black of the ceramic dial. Any future fading, if indeed that occurs, will be uniform, and in the next sixty years of the marque's life it may well be appreciated by those collecting this model as a vintage!

The wearing qualities of a ceramic and Liquidmetal® bezel are a far cry from the bakelite confections seen on early Speedmasters and Seamasters and offer excellent protection against the bumps and scrapes of landlubber use. This is of particular import to the countless army of men who wear Planet Oceans as both a work and life accessory.

Under the dial is one of the best contemporary production movements available today. The calibre 2500 Co-Axial needs no fanfare in this instance, because its global reputation of long-term precision and durability. First-class functional and cosmetic finishing enhances the excellent engineering of this proven performer.

So, is the limited edition a ‘must-have’ for collectors of contemporary Omegas? That depends on the degree to which the alloy is deployed in future Omega dive or water resistant watch bezels. Undoubtedly this model will have a higher collectibility rating because of its limited numbers, but it’s hard to believe that after such an investment in applying this technology Omega will not use it in future models. Thus, the choice becomes one of being first or waiting for the technology to surface on other Omega bezels.


Monday, September 28, 2009

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition

While some have hinted at parsimony when referring to the meagre Omega offerings for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics (particularly compared with the treasure trove of models released during the Beijing extravaganza), this may well be a bonus for serious collectors. A run of 2010 pieces for each of the 41mm and 36.25mm versions points to genuine future collectibility. It’s a watch to pass on to the next generation, so if you purchase one do make sure you keep the boxes and papers!

The Seamaster Vancouver is a thoughtfully designed collectors' piece that is quintessentially Canadian in its colour palette and evocative of the Winter Olympics program. Its colours are taken from the Canadian national flag: a snow white lacquer dial with a red embossed Seamaster logo, black Omega symbol and lettering set against an anodised red bezel with silver index and numbers. The bezel sits strikingly within the classic scalloped case rim and signature Seamaster beveled lugs.

The hands are also part of the Seamaster Professional livery, skeletonised and coated with super LumiNova. The centre sweep is nothing short of dinky, featuring coloured Olympic Rings as a counterweight to the red-tipped “business side” of the sweep. Simple round hour indices coated with Super LumiNova mark each hour.

One or two commentators have questioned the choice of a Seamaster as a commemorative Olympic watch, hinting that a chronograph of some sort is more proper. To me, it’s refreshing to see a configuration with a simple date window do the honours, and aren’t we getting a tad weary of all those big tool watches, the functions of which people rarely ever use, commanding all the attention? In my opinion, the uncluttered snow white dial is infinitely more suggestive of the conditions in which this Olympic competition will be held.

The Seamaster Vancouver case houses a chronometer certified Omega coaxial calibre 2500, reviews of which appear in other posts below. It’s a proven workhorse that matches up to any Rolex calibre you care to mention. The caseback design continues the Canadian theme, showing the Winter Games logo and “Ilanaak”, an abstract sculpture that denotes “friend”.

This Seamaster carries all the fruit of the Seamaster Professional series and retails at around the USD $3800.00 mark, probably a few hundred less after a bit of spirited bargaining. As a collectors piece, particularly for Canadians wishing to commemorate the games, it represents good value. For me, an eminently collectible one of two thousand and ten (for each case size) that screams “out of the ordinary”.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Omega Planet Ocean Diamond Bezel Collection

Omega Planet Ocean diamond bezel watch
Omega Planet ocean diamond bezel chronometer
It had to happen – a Seamaster that not only glows in the dark but glitters in the light!

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Bling and Planet Ocean Chronograph Bling collection are either a group of multi-purpose time-keepers or a family of glittering wetsuit wannabes. Designed for men (and women who have a penchant for big watches), It’s doubtful that these watches will ever grace the wrists of those who enjoy recreational diving on sunken hulks: they could however be an attractive accessory for the heiress or daddy’s little princess who fixes her sights on diving on the odd sulken hunk after having consumed one too many gin slings!

And while the only thing brand ambassador Nicole Kidman is ever likely to dive into is a cocktail frock, she was reported to have not wanted to take her Seamaster Planet Ocean Bling off after a feature photo shoot. It is not known whether her motives were based on avarice or aesthetics, but there are enough diamonds on the bezel of the Seamaster PO Bling to excite the attention of many a Hollywood diva.

In the flesh, the PO looks striking and not at all over-the-top. The uncompromisingly masculine styling of both Planet Ocean models are somewhat softened by their glittering bezels, making these watches equally at home in the boardroom as they are in the lap pool. The uni-directional rotating bezel features a Super-LumiNova dot on black triangular ground at 12 o’clock.

The Planet Ocean chronometer is powered by the coaxial calibre 2500, a proven performer in the Omega stable and comes in case sizes of 45.5mm and 42mm, the latter with 45 slightly smaller diamonds totalling 1.73 carats. The lacquered black dial sets off the diamond polished applied Arabic numerals. Diamond polished rhodium-plated hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel screw-in case back is stamped with the recognisable Seahorse medallion and the integrated black alligator strap is clasped by a stainless steel fold over.

The chronograph model, also shown above, at 45.5 mm, sports 45 sizeable diamonds totalling 2.65 carats. It has a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 and a 12-hour recorder at 6, with a small date window at 4:30.

While these watches are not for everyone, they certainly fit the bill for the man or woman who likes to show off a tad with an aggressively styled jewellery watch….or two

Click here for a picture review of these and other Planet Ocean models

Sunday, August 2, 2009

The Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope




The Omega De Ville family has risen from bona fide hoi polloi to patrician status over the short span of forty years. As in real life, it’s amazing what can be achieved with several successful dips into the gene pool over a generation or two. The latest De Ville offspring - the Chronoscope triplets - have handsome bone structure, rather sporty leers and enough pheromones to beguile any tool-watch sophisticate.

Inspired by the success of the De Ville Rattrapante collection, the De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope is available in a selection of matt black, red and silver dials with contrasting sub dials that facilitate the reading of the chronograph functions. The dial is a masterwork of design with faceted hour markers that allow the light to literally dance. A superbly machined 24 hour chapter ring and a guilloche tri-compax sub-dial configuration sitting within a brush finished sphere combine with colour contrasts to spectacular effect. The red and black version is simply stunning.

The Chronoscopes are powered by Omega’s calibre 3313, self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement, while the GMT version features the calibre 3603 version of the 3313. The column-wheel system is designed to ensure a smooth start to the sweep of the seconds hand when the chronoscope is activated. It also provides precision stop and reset functions that do not interfere with the main timekeeping function of the watch. As mentioned in earlier reviews, a number of ‘fixes’ were applied to this movement, which are believed to have corrected problems experienced with earlier versions.

The 41mm case is available in polished or brushed 18-carat yellow or red gold and stainless steel. Its sculptured lugs, convex bezel and a series of curved and straight lines on the case side, create the appearance of an indestructible leviathan. This is very strong design indeed.

With its certified chronometer status, 52-hour power reserve and water-resistance to 100m, the De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope offers excellent performance coupled with eye-gasmic looks. Starting at a little over $6000 USD (although 1000 dollar discounts are not unheard of) this is one helluva watch for the money.

Click here for a review of the GMT version

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Omega Seamaster Chronometer Bond 2531.80.00




It has taken Omega thirty years to recover from the disasters brought on by the Quartz Crisis. The introduction of cheap Quartz and throwaway watches in the 1970s brought the Swiss watch industry to its knees. The Seamaster 300M Professional, known as the “Bond Seamaster”, has made an immeasurable contribution to the revival of Omega’s Fortunes, more than any other marque in the Omega family. 

In the 1960s Omega was the number one watch company in Switzerland, out-selling and out-ranking Rolex as Switzerland’s high–value, sub-haute horlogerie watch brand. The price of an Omega chronometer was respectably higher than that of Rolex and the brand name was as close to a household name as you could get. That was then, and now is now, and Omega continues to make headway towards the coveted spot of King of the Production Watch Brands, in no small way bolstered by its Bond association.

The Seamaster Bond Professional has become one of the world’s best known land-lubber diver’s watches since Pierce Brosnan first sported an earlier example in the 1995 Bond movie, Golden-Eye. The watch made its market debut in 1993, and it’s endurance for more than 16 years is a testament to both its design and performance. In the world of watch design, sixteen years is a very long time. 
  
The signature guilloche dial with its wave pattern endows the watch with a stylishness that’s as much at home at a business meeting as it is on a sun-drenched beach. The appearance of the uncluttered dial changes as the light quality fluctuates, and the broad, albeit skeletonised, hands provide both functional and aesthetic rewards. The hands are tipped with a super-luminescent material, as are the applied markers, and this makes telling the time at night a reasonably effortless enterprise.

Whether it’s a splash in the spa or a serious dive, the Bond Seamaster is up to the job. It features a helium release valve that is very useful in a decompression chamber where helium in the atmosphere can penetrate and build up in the watch, ultimately popping the crystal if the pressure isn’t relieved. While the nearest to a decompression chamber most owners will get is an unnaturally long stint in the dog-house avoiding the recriminations of a woman scorned, it is a nice feature to have on a watch.

Framing the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel designed to track the remaining air supply available. A choice of either black dial and bezel or blue dial and bezel is available, depending on your selection of case metal, but for my money the blue waved dial and complimentary bezel is the better option. 

The case contains a confluence of interesting lines: deep polished chamfers extend to the breadth of the lugs; twin arcs extend protection to the screw-down crown and counterbalance beautifully the circular bezel, making this watch a classic no matter where it is worn. Powered by a calibre 2500 automatic movemen, proven over three decades, the Bond Seamaster is a watch for all seasons. 

To return full circle to the Rolex-Omega nexus of the 1960s, click here for a comparative review of the Bond and Rolex Submariner by John Hollbrook. And yes, the Bond wins!

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M


Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M
The 1970 Omega Ploprof was one of the most aggressive and robust dive watches ever produced. As a piece of design it exuded 1970s brutalism at its best, and as a piece of hardware it could withstand the incredible depth pressures amounting to tons on the total surface of the watch when submerged at over 1000 feet. The Ploprof (a shortening of the French ‘plongeurs professionels’ which means ‘professional divers’) was equipped with a calibre 1002 movement, a mildly disappointing power plant with fundamental design problems that were corrected in later editions of the movement.

You would be lucky to pay less than $6500.00 for a vintage Ploprof these days. In these times of big, brash and chunky watch design, the Ploprof has an allure that transcends its purpose as a dive watch and it was only a matter of time before Omega unleashed this monster in an updated form.

You could say that the Ploprof is horology’s answer to the Hummer. The new version makes the same ‘Get outa my way’ statement, and, like the Hummer, performs best in its intended environment. The new Ploprof 1200M, as its name suggests, is water resistant to an astounding 1200 metres (4000 feet). While you may have the life crushed out of you at that depth, the mighty Ploprof will remain seaworthy.

The watch in its new form has a better movement than the original. Under its reinforced bonnet is the Omega Co-Axial calibre 8500, a power plant shaping up to be a classic in production watch design and technology. It is an automatic calibre driven by a highly efficient bi-directional rotor transmitting energy through two barrels that provide the watch with a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is adjusted and certified to chronometer standards.

Time and date adjustments are made by unscrewing the crown, positioned at nine o’clock, to release the protective buffer and then pulling the crown to the appropriate position. The hour hand can be adjusted separately to accommodate different time zones.

At the 2 o’clock position is the bezel-release security pusher with an orange anodised aluminium ring. Pressing the pusher allows the bezel to be rotated in either direction and then locked firmly in position, ensuring that it cannot be accidentally shifted during a dive. The Ploprof has an automatic helium escape valve located on the side of the case at the 4 o’clock position. This feature allows helium atoms to escape during decompression, and is particularly useful for professional divers operating from diving bells.

The case is made of brushed stainless steel and has polished bevels. The centre piece of the two-piece oriented caseback features a background of straight, parallel waves with a polished Omega logo, the word “Seamaster” and the famous Seahorse on a matt surface.

The Ploprof 1200M is available either with a brushed mesh "Sharkproof" bracelet or on a rubber strap in a choice of black or orange. Let’s hope that you never have need of the sharkproof feature, which, in many ways, is overkill. The bracelet also features an extra divers’ extension to 26 mm so that the watch can be worn comfortably over a diving suit.

With prices starting at around the seven and a half thousand dollars mark, this is the ultimate in diving watches with a price to match.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 Chronograph

Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 Chronograph
Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 Chronograph

A COSC certified chronometer with chronograph features in the sub haute horlogerie echelon, where Omega, Rolex, IWC and other iconic brands perch comfortably, usually commands a price of six to ten thousand USD. And yet the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00, powered by one of the most resilient chronograph movements on the market today, requires an investment of less than $USD3000.00 after haggling……sometimes a lot less.

Under the dial is an Omega calibre1164 self-winding movement with a reserve of 44 hours. This calibre manufactured by Omega’s sister company ETA is based on the famous Valjoux 7750 ‘tracteur’. First released in 1973, the base calibre is one of the most ubiquitous chronograph movements used in watches today and is a proven performer over time. Click here for a history of the movement.

Finished to Omega standards that elevate the power plant to that of a high-value movement, the Speedmaster 3212.80, adequately serviced, will last two lifetimes.

Because of the widespread use of the base ETA calibre, most watchmakers know their way around the movement, and so when the warranty runs out you need not pay premium servicing prices. Click here for a review of the calibre by Walt Odets.

While the dial comes in white, silver, black and blue, the most eye-catching combination is the blue dial framed by a blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast with the brushed stainless steel case and bracelet which, incidentally, has a fold-over-clasp-with-double-push-button-safety. This combination delivers a degree of panache often unattainable in the clunkier tool watches.

The dial has a date display at three o’clock and an assymetical sub-dial configuration that really works as a piece of design. The skeletonised pointed index hands and arrowhead centre sweep, combined with the classic Speedmaster case lines provide a reference point to the Speedmaster’s heritage.

Few would disagree that the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 is one of the best buys in the Omega range.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar

Omega DeVille Hour Vision Annual Calendar Watch
Omega De Ville Hour Vision Calendar Watch
Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendarwatch
The name De Ville was coined by Omega’s U.S. agent Norman Morris in the 1960s to add a sliver of working class respectability to a collection of entry-level Seamaster monocoques that were part-assembled in America. It was a name closely associated with automobile manufacturer, Cadillac. The commandeering of the De Ville name by Cadillac - translated from French, it means ‘City’ - was quite appropriate, when you consider that some of its models in the 1960s were the size of a small one. 

Omega so liked the name that it adopted it and there evolved a complete collection of watches under the De Ville banner, which, by 1967, had become the largest collection within the Omega stable. From its lower price point origins of simple, but youthful models adaptable to the latest fashion trends, the De Ville has come to exemplify urban sophistication - with a price tag to match.

While the Constellation lays claim to ‘Dress Watch’ status, it is the De Ville that has become a symbol of style and elegance. From the design and finish through to the in-house calibre 8611 co-axial movement that facilitates an instantaneous jump calendar complication, the Hour Vision Annual calendar is a watch for those who appreciate excellent case sculpture, function without the fussiness of a tool watch and high tech horology.  

The novel features of this watch are threefold. The annual calendar feature that factors in months with 30 and 31 days, the glass casket-like construction of the case that offers four lateral openings made of sapphire crystal and a cutting-edge silicon balance spring that offers an unprecedented level of accuracy in a series production watch.

The Deville Range comes in eight models and a limited edition signature piece: four in red gold and four in stainless steel, all with dials identical in design to that of the Limited Series. Prices start from around the 8500 dollar mark, give or take 500 dollars depending on the generosity of the authorised dealer. For a high-value watch, this price is in the medium range, and I truly believe that Omega has hit the ‘Classic’ mark with this beautiful timepiece.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

The Omega Railmaster Chronometer

Vintage Omega Railmaster
Omega Railmaster Chronometer

Omega Railmaster Co-axial Chronometer
Over many years it’s been an Omega tradition to create facsimiles of its iconic models of the past. This is a smart marketing move as it reinforces the rich bloodlines of a prestigious brand and adds heritage value to owning a contemporary Omega. Amongst the more recent of these offerings is the caliber 2403 Railmaster, a watch of clean simple lines and stark dial contrasts.

Based on the famous and highly collectible Railmaster CK 2914 created in 1957 (see first picture above) as a successor to a watch produced for the British Air Force in 1953, the Railmaster 2803.52.37 at 39.2 mm in diameter is marginally larger than the original 38mm case, although the mid-size at just over 36mm would be ideal for those with smaller wrists.. The original also had a double anti-magnetic case to protect the movement from strong magnetic fields, however with modern metals of today and high-tech hairsprings, such measures have been rendered largely redundant.

The new Railmaster case has an angled polished bezel not dissimilar to the original. Whereas the original has a fairly uniform appearance on the rest of the case, its progeny features a satin brushed finish on lugs and case side, interrupted by highly polished bevelling that widens out at each lug and sweeps down the lug end. This creates a three-dimensional effect to the case and adds a level of design sophistication not present in the 1957 model.

The flat black dial, uncluttered by various sub-dials, has a simple chapter ring punctuated by luminous arrow hour markers. A perigal centre sweep and large skeletonised pyramid minute hand (often known as a broad-arrow) and a skeletonised dauphine-like hour hand are reasonably faithful to the original design.

So why the Railmaster? Well, putting aside Jeremy Clarkson’s enthusiastic recommendation, the Railmaster’s classic lines and heritage make it a watch that can be worn through various fads and fashions. It’s a watch for life, not only in the sense of its timeless style, but also for its solid work horse movement.. Based on the incredibly reliable ETA 2892-A2, the caliber 2403 has a free sprung balance and George Daniels Co-Axial escapement and is meticulously finished. With a good service at recommended intervals this movement will keep on purring well into, and probably beyond, your old age! For a review on the ETA 2892, click here

Priced at roughly $3000.00 USD in stainless steel, depending on how generous your authorised dealer decides to be, the Railmaster offers incredible value.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Omega GMT Solar Impulse Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Solar Impulse GMT
Omega Speedmaster Solar Impulse GMT
The Omega Speedmaster GMT Solar Impulse is the perfect Speedie for those who are indifferent to the marque’s moon heritage and bevy of near-fossilised heroes who wore the watch during those heady days of U.S. lunar missions. Rather, the Solar Impulse is a tribute to an ambitious contemporary adventure of some magnificent men in a flying machine powered only by the sun who plan circumnavigate the world. (Click here for information on this important and innovative project)

Omega is a major partner in this endeavour and in keeping with its long tradition of releasing models to mark important events, Omega’s Steven Urquart said, “Following in the steps of Omega’s pioneering history and in particular our participation in the conquest of space and the Moon landing, I believe the Solar Impulse project gives us an authentic and far-reaching platform to communicate a very important message in today’s world in a solar powered aircraft” 

The Omega Solar Impulse is slightly less in diameter than the Solar Impulse’s wingspan at 44.25 mm. Crafted from Grade-2 titanium, including the crown and pushers, the case houses a 37 jewel Omega caliber 3603, a seriously souped-up and decoratively finished Piguet 1285 column wheel chronograph with free sprung balance and a signature Co-Axial escapement. The movement purrs along at 28,800 oscillations an hour, allowing a timing accuracy to within 1/8th of a second. From all reports, this is a very reliable engine.

The screw-in case-back features the engraving of the "Test Flight" inscription. The sapphire crystal gives reliable protection against the bumps and grinds of daily life and has a dual anti-reflective coating. The watch will sustain pressure at 100 metres, and just in case you intend snorkelling to that depth it has a very attractive optional rubber strap.

The high tech feel of this watch is reinforced by the dial and dial furniture: from the central 24 hour GMT hand with an areoplane shaped pointer to its black carbon fibre dial with a texture that is pure “design industriel”. The dial features centrap hour and minute hands and a chronograph seconds hand and is framed with an understated black and white bezel which allows attention to be directed to the rest of the case and its heavily chamfered lugs. Overall, the design of the Solar Impulse, combined with its high-tech materials, makes it one of the meaner looking tool watches on the block and a fitting companion on the wrists of those intrepid aviators who hope to make history. 
Click here for the full technical manual for the 3603

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Omega Planet Ocean - Heirloom of the Future

Omega Planet Ocean watch
Omega Planet Ocean Watch




The 42 mm Planet Ocean is one of the finest looking dive watches in the Omega collection. While the Planet Ocean ‘Big’ (2900.50.91), at more than 45mm diameter, may suit those who wish to wear a timepiece that can be easily transformed into a navy SEAL landing craft (there is even space to attach a couple of high powered out-boards), it is the PO ‘Normal’ (2201.50.00) that I believe will ultimately become a true ‘collector’s’ piece.

The Planet Ocean combines modernity with genuine Omega DNA to produce a watch that reflects a synthesis of the classicism of the famous Seamaster dive watches of the 1970s and contemporary stylistic preferences. It was originally released with a black bezel and white characters. Later the stunning orange bezel with orange characters on the quarter hours was released, and later still, a black bezel with orange characters was produced for those, who, perhaps, couldn’t make their minds up about the ideal colour palette.

The Planet Ocean is powered by an officially certified automatic Omega Co-Axial calibre 2500 movement, which is a beautifully modified ETA 2892 ebauche, complete with free-sprung balance. It is an extremely reliable work-horse movement that has stood the test of time, if you’ll pardon the pun. The George Daniels Co-Axial escapement system elevates this movement into the realms of cutting edge horology, reducing friction and extending service intervals to boot. The movement beats along at 25,200 half revolutions per hour, which, combined with a larger and heavier balance wheel, improves the stability of the movement. The slower beat rate allows a corresponding increase in the power reserve to 48 hours.

Planet Oceans come with a helium release valve (see the second crown at 2200). While this is a boon for deep sea divers who need to release built up helium to avoid serious damage to their watches, please rest assured that you will not need to use this function when you explore the depths of your swimming pool. The concept of gas release in the Planet Ocean is not dissimilar to gas release in humans – they both have to be done with aforethought and manually!

The Planet Ocean, in my opinion, is a true collectible of the future. The 2201.50.00, in particular, eschews size for size’s sake, and, thus, will probably not be found consigned in the darker recesses of some sock drawer of the future because of its dinosaur proportions. Rather, in 30 years, I believe it will have the status of the Seamaster 300s of the 1960s. So, for the investment of around $3000.00 USD (depending on the discounts you may extract from an authorised dealer) you can own an heirloom of the future.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Latest Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
Since the launch of the OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra collection in 2008, it has been warmly received by watch enthusiasts who have raved about its blend of eye-catching design excellence and innovating watchmaking technology. OMEGA now introduces another member of the family, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph.
Like the rest of the collection, its trademark feature is its “Teak Concept” dial whose vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph’s luxury-finished movement combines OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 3313 and a free sprung balance for outstanding long-term performance. Its precision is confirmed by its COSC-certification as a chronometer. The self-winding watch is also equipped with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph is available in four case materials: 18 Ct white gold, 18 Ct red gold, stainless steel or, in the bi-coloured version pictured here featuring 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel. The watches are available either with OMEGA’s patented screw-and-pin system bracelets in corresponding metals or with integrated alligator straps.
The polished, brushed 44 mm case is water resistant to 150 metres (500 feet) and has a polished bezel. The matt polished screw-in crown is embossed with a polished OMEGA logo and the case features polished chronograph pushers. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph has a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, as well as a polished screw-in caseback whose sapphire crystal makes it possible to see the Co-Axial movement at work.
The model featured above has a red gold bezel with matching middle bracelet links, reminiscent of some of the classic Omega models 0f the 1960s and 70s.

Click here for a recent review of this model

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Omega Constellation Double Eagle Chronograph

Omega Constellation Double Eagle Chronograph
Omega Constellation Double Eagle Chronograph
The Omega Constellation Double Eagle reference 1619.51.91 chronograph is without doubt the sportiest and most agressive looking iteration of the Constellation brand. The Double-Eagle is a nich market high-end tool watch with head-turning looks that are both sophisticated and 'edgy'. 

Sitting in a relatively conservative case body, the DE draws its exceptional overall effect from the colour palet, dial furniture and other stylistic elements that are used to accessorise the case: Solid 18k red gold chunky markers are applied on a checkerboard dial (in one version) with a stark white chapter ring; Stubbed dauphine hands, merging sub-dials contrasting with a minimalist sub-dial at nine o'clock come together to create a striking visage. 

The broad bezel in black with contrasting roman numerals establishes a fine balance with the thick, sculptured claws.  The pushers, a modern rendition of chronograph pushers from the 1950s, create a pleasing addition to the profile of the watch. The rubber strap reinforces the contrasts in the case and frames the case perfectly.  

The model featured in this review is powered by the Omega calibre 3313. While there has been a low incidence of public reports about the reliability of the calibre 3313 Double Eagle model, it pays to know that in its earlier incarnation there were quite a few concerns expressed by collectors about the movement. Nevertheless, the feedback on these movements has been decidedly mixed and often quite emotional.

The movement is a Frédéric Piguet designed and manufactured calibre. In response to earlier reports on issues of reliability and durability, Omega engineered retrofit parts to address these concerns and the 'fix' parts are now a standard feature in all currently manufactured 3313s.  I am still not a fan of the 3xxx calibres because I do not believe they are as robust as they should. 

Calibre 3313 is a self-winding chronograph movement with column wheel mechanism and Co-Axial Escapement for greater precision stability and durability of the movement. It features a free sprung balance and a 52 hour power reserve. Water resistance is guaranteed to 100 metres. The 41mm case is fitted with a domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

First appearing in retail establishments in 2004, the Double Eagle family is available in three different versions. But for sheer brilliance in styling the model 1619.51.91 stands tall above the others.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph
This new Acqua Terra has particularly striking design features. Its “Teak Concept” dial has vertical lines which are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Chronograph’s luxury-finished movement combines OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 3603 and a free sprung balance for outstanding long-term performance. Its precision is confirmed by its COSC-certification as a chronometer. 

The watch’s GMT hand, which makes one complete rotation in 24 hours, is ideally suited for people who travel frequently between time zones or who need to know what time it is another part of the world. 

The watch is available either in 18 Ct red gold or in stainless steel. The red gold model comes with a choice of a matching 18 Ct red gold bracelet or with a brown alligator strap integrated in the case. The stainless steel watch is delivered either with a black “soft-touch” integrated alligator strap or with a screw-and-pin bracelet in stainless steel. 

The polished, brushed 44 mm case is water resistant to 150 metres (500 feet). Its bi-directional rotating GMT bezel in either 18 Ct red gold or stainless steel is mounted with a ring coated with black PVD and scaled to 24 hours, which allows the tracking of three separate time zones. It has a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, as well as a polished screw-in caseback whose sapphire crystal makes it possible to see the Co-Axial movement at work.

The 18 Ct red gold model features a teak-grey dial, sun-brushed from the center, with black sub-dials. The stainless steel edition’s dial is vertically-brushed teak-grey with black sub-dials. It has central hour, minute, GMT and chronograph seconds hands and a small seconds counter at 9H. The other sub-dials are the 30-minute recorder at 3H and the 12-hour recorder at 6H.

The facetted hour, minute and GMT hands are made of 18 Ct gold and coated with white Super-LumiNova. The GMT hand is tipped with a red arrow. The dial also has applied 18 Ct gold indexes with diamond-polished sides which are coated with white Super-LumiNova. The OMEGA name and logo on the dial are also diamond-brushed applied 18 Ct gold. 

Read Ariel Adams' review of the GMT Aqua Terra

The Latest Omega Speedmaster Caliber 3313


The new automatic coaxial version (311.30.44.50.01.002) of the iconic Omega Speedmaster is purpose designed for those who like big tool watches. At 44.25mm, it's noticeably larger than the 3570 with a moderately wider tachymeter bezel.

This new model offers the advantage of a date display and automatic winding, but could lose the attention of a few purists with the evolution of the dial design. However, for any fourty-plus owner, the larger markings make the watch that little bit easier to read.

This large and latest Speedmaster is noticeably heavier than the moonwatch and features a new bracelet design using screws instead of the old pins and collars they used on earlier models. The specifications of the watch are as follows:

…Omega caliber 3313 Self-winding Chronograph
…Co-Axial Escapement
…Column wheel mechanism
…52 Hour Power reserve
…Date at the 6 o’clock position
…Continuous seconds hand at the 9 o’clock position
…Matte black dial with recessed sub dials for elapsed minutes and hours
…Scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside
…Scratch resistant sapphire crystal exhibit case back
…Water resistant to 100 meters (330 feet)

This new version maintains a strong design link with its predecessors while offering new features. It satisfies many of the demands of contemporary owners, and while some may feel that the exhibition case back is a travesty, it certainly is a joy to look through and see the movement go through its paces.

the Fredric Piguet co-designed and manufactured Calibre 33xx has had a mixed reception amongst some Omega aficionados, notably the late Chuck Maddox. But, while it may have its detractors it certainly has a cohort of followers on the major watch forums. Notwithstanding improvements to this movement in later iterations, I believe there are better chronograph movements around.

Click here for an even-handed review of the calibre 3313
Click here for a WatchTime article reviewing a range of contemporary chronograph movements
Click here for a comprehensive Omega audio-visual presentation on the history of the Speedmaster

Omega Museum Collection Racend Timer

Omega Race-End Timer

The Omega Museum Collection arose from a desire to combine the historical milestones of timekeeping with the technology of the 21st century. The collection mainly targets collectors and lovers of extraordinary watches. The first model of the collection introduced in 2003 was that of the 1938 Pilots Watch and since then some truly magnificent designs have been resurrected, including the the 1915 Tonneau, the 1932 Marine, the 1951 Cosmic,the 1945 Chronograph, and more recently the Racend Timer.

The Omega Museum Collection is one of Omega's show piece collections and the 1949 Racend Timeris a worthy member of this exclusive collection. It takes its name from a ground-breaking piece of Omega timekeeping that solved the problem of multiple finish line arrivals in track competitions.  

Powered by a hand-winding Omega 3201 caliber movement, it is governed by a column-wheel and offers 12-hour and 30-minute counters, as well as small seconds. The caliber also incorporates a free-sprung balance and the Omega Co-Axial Escapement. The case size is 39mm.

Only 1,949 pieces of this beautiful watch were produced. It features brushed finishes on the sides, contrasted by polished elements on the lugs tops and bezel. The opaline silver dial features both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale.

The varied elements such as triangular gold hour figures, leaf hands, and the stylised Omega logo recall the design of those much-loved and highly collecible vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s and 50s.  

Click here for a short review and specifications of the watch.

New Omega Constellation Luxury Edition Release





The Omega Constellation Luxury Edition watches are now appearing in Omega boutiques and authorised dealerships. Shimmer is an understatement, and only males with absolute confidence in their sexual identity, gangsta rappers, Comumbian drug lords and nouveau riche natives of South-East Asia will probably be drawn to 31mm case size version of the collection. They are essentially a piece of jewelery for those members of the species to whom diamonds are their best friend.

The models in the luxury range have identical dials. There are however three distinct configurations of diamonds on their bracelets and cases. The 31 mm model features the magnificent Omega OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8421 movement.

The most blindingly spectacular of the models in the luxury collection feature more than 3 karats of diamonds.
The Constellation that will be most popular with males is the redesigned case body with the wider claws, more reminiscent of the Double-Eagle styling that the earlier Manhattan design story. (see above Pic 2) The 38mm version is powered by the Co-Axial Calibre 8500/8501, Omega's latest in-house calibre.

The new 8500 series of calibres are no slouches. Click here for a review of this high-tech marvel from the Omega stable.

The New Omega Speedmaster Professionals

Omega Speedmaster professional Moon Watch
Two OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition watches have been released to celebrate this important milestone: one in stainless steel
and sterling silver (7,969 pieces); the other in platinum and 18 Ct yellow gold (69 pieces).

Both are powered by OMEGA’s calibre 1861, which shares its lineage with the calibre 321 used in the original Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. The stainless steel casebody is delivered with a stainless steel bracelet which has been upgraded to include OMEGA’s patented screw and pin system. The black dial also recalls that of the Moonwatch with some key differences. The small seconds counter (sub-dial) is a medallion which features an adaptation of Apollo 11’s famous mission patch: an eagle descends to the lunar surface with an olive branch representing peace in its claws. In the distance, far above the horizon, the earth is visible.

The patch was designed by Michael Collins who remained in the Apollo 11 capsule as Command Module Pilot while his colleagues Armstrong and Aldrin were in the Lunar Module and on the moon.

The watch’s hour, minute and the red-tipped chronograph seconds hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The minute and hour chronograph counter hands are white and there is a brushed, rhodium-plated small seconds hand in attractive relief to the slightly recessed medallion on the counter.

Click here for a review of these exclusive models

Friday, June 19, 2009

Omega Offers a Limited Edition Seamaster Bond

Omega Seamaster Limited Edition Bond Watch
While the movie may have been without much of a story, the Omega Bond Seamaster certainly looks great on our hero's wrist.

Omega Bond Seamasters also include a limited edition Quantum of Solas model - seen above. The black textured surface of its dial – reminiscent of the grip of 007’s trademark Walther PPK – distinguishes the OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m "Quantum of Solace" from every other James Bond limited edition watch. The blood red tip of the seconds hand rotates in stark contrast to the black dial.

New Omega Offerings at Baselworld Watch Show

New Omega Ploprof watch


Omega launched a range of new and 'homage' models at Baselworld, Switzerland's premier watch event, held in early April 2009.

While a bevy of American astronauts stole the limelight at the Omega launch of two limited edition Speedmasters, one model that did not fall under the radar was the reintroduced 1970's icon and quintessence of 1970s brutalism - the Ploprof.

The new Omega Co-Axial Ploprof 1200M bears a strong physical resemblance to its famous ancestor and it carries on the traditions of robust reliability and water resistance which have always defined OMEGA’s divers’ watches. But there are some improvements under the bonnet, which include a member of the first family of in-house manufactured movements since the 1000 movements series, the Omega Co-axial calibre 8500.

Click here for the complete Omega Baselworld catalogue
Click here for a review of the Ploprof