Omega Seamaster Chronometer Bond 2531.80.00

It has taken Omega thirty years to recover from the disasters brought on by the Quartz Crisis. The introduction of cheap Quartz and throwaway watches in the 1970s brought the Swiss watch industry to its knees. The Seamaster 300M Professional, known as the “Bond Seamaster”, has made an immeasurable contribution to the revival of Omega’s Fortunes, more than any other marque in the Omega family. 

In the 1960s Omega was the number one watch company in Switzerland, out-selling and out-ranking Rolex as Switzerland’s high–value, sub-haute horlogerie watch brand. The price of an Omega chronometer was respectably higher than that of Rolex and the brand name was as close to a household name as you could get. That was then, and now is now, and Omega continues to make headway towards the coveted spot of King of the Production Watch Brands, in no small way bolstered by its Bond association.

The Seamaster Bond Professional has become one of the world’s best known land-lubber diver’s watches since Pierce Brosnan first sported an earlier example in the 1995 Bond movie, Golden-Eye. The watch made its market debut in 1993, and it’s endurance for more than 16 years is a testament to both its design and performance. In the world of watch design, sixteen years is a very long time. 

  

The signature guilloche dial with its wave pattern endows the watch with a stylishness that’s as much at home at a business meeting as it is on a sun-drenched beach. The appearance of the uncluttered dial changes as the light quality fluctuates, and the broad, albeit skeletonised, hands provide both functional and aesthetic rewards. The hands are tipped with a super-luminescent material, as are the applied markers, and this makes telling the time at night a reasonably effortless enterprise.

Whether it’s a splash in the spa or a serious dive, the Bond Seamaster is up to the job. It features a helium release valve that is very useful in a decompression chamber where helium in the atmosphere can penetrate and build up in the watch, ultimately popping the crystal if the pressure isn’t relieved. While the nearest to a decompression chamber most owners will get is an unnaturally long stint in the dog-house avoiding the recriminations of a woman scorned, it is a nice feature to have on a watch.

Framing the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel designed to track the remaining air supply available. A choice of either black dial and bezel or blue dial and bezel is available, depending on your selection of case metal, but for my money the blue waved dial and complimentary bezel is the better option. 

The case contains a confluence of interesting lines: deep polished chamfers extend to the breadth of the lugs; twin arcs extend protection to the screw-down crown and counterbalance beautifully the circular bezel, making this watch a classic no matter where it is worn. Powered by a calibre 2500 automatic movemen, proven over three decades, the Bond Seamaster is a watch for all seasons. 

To return full circle to the Rolex-Omega nexus of the 1960s, click here for a comparative review of the Bond and Rolex Submariner by John Hollbrook. And yes, the Bond wins!

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M

The 1970 Omega Ploprof was one of the most aggressive and robust dive watches ever produced. As a piece of design it exuded 1970s brutalism at its best, and as a piece of hardware it could withstand the incredible depth pressures amounting to tons on the total surface of the watch when submerged at over 1000 feet. The Ploprof (a shortening of the French ‘plongeurs professionels’ which means ‘professional divers’) was equipped with a calibre 1002 movement, a mildly disappointing power plant with fundamental design problems that were corrected in later editions of the movement.

You would be lucky to pay less than $6500.00 for a vintage Ploprof these days. In these times of big, brash and chunky watch design, the Ploprof has an allure that transcends its purpose as a dive watch and it was only a matter of time before Omega unleashed this monster in an updated form.

You could say that the Ploprof is horology’s answer to the Hummer. The new version makes the same ‘Get outa my way’ statement, and, like the Hummer, performs best in its intended environment. The new Ploprof 1200M, as its name suggests, is water resistant to an astounding 1200 metres (4000 feet). While you may have the life crushed out of you at that depth, the mighty Ploprof will remain seaworthy.

The watch in its new form has a better movement than the original. Under its reinforced bonnet is the Omega Co-Axial calibre 8500, a power plant shaping up to be a classic in production watch design and technology. It is an automatic calibre driven by a highly efficient bi-directional rotor transmitting energy through two barrels that provide the watch with a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is adjusted and certified to chronometer standards.

Time and date adjustments are made by unscrewing the crown, positioned at nine o’clock, to release the protective buffer and then pulling the crown to the appropriate position. The hour hand can be adjusted separately to accommodate different time zones.

At the 2 o’clock position is the bezel-release security pusher with an orange anodised aluminium ring. Pressing the pusher allows the bezel to be rotated in either direction and then locked firmly in position, ensuring that it cannot be accidentally shifted during a dive. The Ploprof has an automatic helium escape valve located on the side of the case at the 4 o’clock position. This feature allows helium atoms to escape during decompression, and is particularly useful for professional divers operating from diving bells.

The case is made of brushed stainless steel and has polished bevels. The centre piece of the two-piece oriented caseback features a background of straight, parallel waves with a polished Omega logo, the word “Seamaster” and the famous Seahorse on a matt surface.

The Ploprof 1200M is available either with a brushed mesh "Sharkproof" bracelet or on a rubber strap in a choice of black or orange. Let’s hope that you never have need of the sharkproof feature, which, in many ways, is overkill. The bracelet also features an extra divers’ extension to 26 mm so that the watch can be worn comfortably over a diving suit.

With prices starting at around the seven and a half thousand dollars mark, this is the ultimate in diving watches with a price to match.

Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 Chronograph

A COSC certified chronometer with chronograph features in the sub haute horlogerie echelon, where Omega, Rolex, IWC and other iconic brands perch comfortably, usually commands a price of six to ten thousand USD. And yet the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00, powered by one of the most resilient chronograph movements on the market today, requires an investment of less than $USD3000.00 after haggling……sometimes a lot less.

Under the dial is an Omega calibre1164 self-winding movement with a reserve of 44 hours. This calibre manufactured by Omega’s sister company ETA is based on the famous Valjoux 7750 ‘tracteur’. First released in 1973, the base calibre is one of the most ubiquitous chronograph movements used in watches today and is a proven performer over time. Click here for a history of the movement.

Finished to Omega standards that elevate the power plant to that of a high-value movement, the Speedmaster 3212.80, adequately serviced, will last two lifetimes.

Because of the widespread use of the base ETA calibre, most watchmakers know their way around the movement, and so when the warranty runs out you need not pay premium servicing prices. Click here for a review of the calibre by Walt Odets.

While the dial comes in white, silver, black and blue, the most eye-catching combination is the blue dial framed by a blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast with the brushed stainless steel case and bracelet which, incidentally, has a fold-over-clasp-with-double-push-button-safety. This combination delivers a degree of panache often unattainable in the clunkier tool watches.

The dial has a date display at three o’clock and an assymetical sub-dial configuration that really works as a piece of design. The skeletonised pointed index hands and arrowhead centre sweep, combined with the classic Speedmaster case lines provide a reference point to the Speedmaster’s heritage.

Few would disagree that the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 is one of the best buys in the Omega range.

Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar

The name De Ville was coined by Omega’s U.S. agent Norman Morris in the 1960s to add a sliver of working class respectability to a collection of entry-level Seamaster monocoques that were part-assembled in America. It was a name closely associated with automobile manufacturer, Cadillac. The commandeering of the De Ville name by Cadillac - translated from French, it means ‘City’ - was quite appropriate, when you consider that some of its models in the 1960s were the size of a small one. 

Omega so liked the name that it adopted it and there evolved a complete collection of watches under the De Ville banner, which, by 1967, had become the largest collection within the Omega stable. From its lower price point origins of simple, but youthful models adaptable to the latest fashion trends, the De Ville has come to exemplify urban sophistication - with a price tag to match.

While the Constellation lays claim to ‘Dress Watch’ status, it is the De Ville that has become a symbol of style and elegance. From the design and finish through to the in-house calibre 8611 co-axial movement that facilitates an instantaneous jump calendar complication, the Hour Vision Annual calendar is a watch for those who appreciate excellent case sculpture, function without the fussiness of a tool watch and high tech horology.  

The novel features of this watch are threefold. The annual calendar feature that factors in months with 30 and 31 days, the glass casket-like construction of the case that offers four lateral openings made of sapphire crystal and a cutting-edge silicon balance spring that offers an unprecedented level of accuracy in a series production watch.

The Deville Range comes in eight models and a limited edition signature piece: four in red gold and four in stainless steel, all with dials identical in design to that of the Limited Series. Prices start from around the 8500 dollar mark, give or take 500 dollars depending on the generosity of the authorised dealer. For a high-value watch, this price is in the medium range, and I truly believe that Omega has hit the ‘Classic’ mark with this beautiful timepiece.

The Omega Railmaster Chronometer

Over many years it’s been an Omega tradition to create facsimiles of its iconic models of the past. This is a smart marketing move as it reinforces the rich bloodlines of a prestigious brand and adds heritage value to owning a contemporary Omega. Amongst the more recent of these offerings is the caliber 2403 Railmaster, a watch of clean simple lines and stark dial contrasts.

Based on the famous and highly collectible Railmaster CK 2914 created in 1957 (see first picture above) as a successor to a watch produced for the British Air Force in 1953, the Railmaster 2803.52.37 at 39.2 mm in diameter is marginally larger than the original 38mm case, although the mid-size at just over 36mm would be ideal for those with smaller wrists.. The original also had a double anti-magnetic case to protect the movement from strong magnetic fields, however with modern metals of today and high-tech hairsprings, such measures have been rendered largely redundant.

The new Railmaster case has an angled polished bezel not dissimilar to the original. Whereas the original has a fairly uniform appearance on the rest of the case, its progeny features a satin brushed finish on lugs and case side, interrupted by highly polished bevelling that widens out at each lug and sweeps down the lug end. This creates a three-dimensional effect to the case and adds a level of design sophistication not present in the 1957 model.

The flat black dial, uncluttered by various sub-dials, has a simple chapter ring punctuated by luminous arrow hour markers. A perigal centre sweep and large skeletonised pyramid minute hand (often known as a broad-arrow) and a skeletonised dauphine-like hour hand are reasonably faithful to the original design.

So why the Railmaster? Well, putting aside Jeremy Clarkson’s enthusiastic recommendation, the Railmaster’s classic lines and heritage make it a watch that can be worn through various fads and fashions. It’s a watch for life, not only in the sense of its timeless style, but also for its solid work horse movement.. Based on the incredibly reliable ETA 2892-A2, the caliber 2403 has a free sprung balance and George Daniels Co-Axial escapement and is meticulously finished. With a good service at recommended intervals this movement will keep on purring well into, and probably beyond, your old age! For a review on the ETA 2892, click here

Priced at roughly $3000.00 USD in stainless steel, depending on how generous your authorised dealer decides to be, the Railmaster offers incredible value.

Omega GMT Solar Impulse Speedmaster

The Omega Speedmaster GMT Solar Impulse is the perfect Speedie for those who are indifferent to the marque’s moon heritage and bevy of near-fossilised heroes who wore the watch during those heady days of U.S. lunar missions. Rather, the Solar Impulse is a tribute to an ambitious contemporary adventure of some magnificent men in a flying machine powered only by the sun who plan circumnavigate the world. (Click here for information on this important and innovative project)

Omega is a major partner in this endeavour and in keeping with its long tradition of releasing models to mark important events, Omega’s Steven Urquart said, “Following in the steps of Omega’s pioneering history and in particular our participation in the conquest of space and the Moon landing, I believe the Solar Impulse project gives us an authentic and far-reaching platform to communicate a very important message in today’s world in a solar powered aircraft” 

The Omega Solar Impulse is slightly less in diameter than the Solar Impulse’s wingspan at 44.25 mm. Crafted from Grade-2 titanium, including the crown and pushers, the case houses a 37 jewel Omega caliber 3603, a seriously souped-up and decoratively finished Piguet 1285 column wheel chronograph with free sprung balance and a signature Co-Axial escapement. The movement purrs along at 28,800 oscillations an hour, allowing a timing accuracy to within 1/8th of a second. From all reports, this is a very reliable engine.

The screw-in case-back features the engraving of the "Test Flight" inscription. The sapphire crystal gives reliable protection against the bumps and grinds of daily life and has a dual anti-reflective coating. The watch will sustain pressure at 100 metres, and just in case you intend snorkelling to that depth it has a very attractive optional rubber strap.

The high tech feel of this watch is reinforced by the dial and dial furniture: from the central 24 hour GMT hand with an areoplane shaped pointer to its black carbon fibre dial with a texture that is pure “design industriel”. The dial features centrap hour and minute hands and a chronograph seconds hand and is framed with an understated black and white bezel which allows attention to be directed to the rest of the case and its heavily chamfered lugs. Overall, the design of the Solar Impulse, combined with its high-tech materials, makes it one of the meaner looking tool watches on the block and a fitting companion on the wrists of those intrepid aviators who hope to make history. 

Click here for the full technical manual for the 3603