Thursday, January 21, 2010

The Omega Skeletonised Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition




The concept of the Omega Central Torbillon first appeared in 1994 when Andre Beyner and Mauritz Grimm created the first tourbillion mechanism ever placed in the very centre of the movement. Launched to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Omega brand name, Omega has continued the production of these fine horological pieces in a range of jewelled, grand luxe and simpler forms ever since.

The latest offering coming from the company that manufactured one of the world’s first tourbillon wristwatches in 1947 marks yet another milestone in Omega’s long-term strategy to regain its place as Switzerland’s premier luxury mass-production brand. Students of the post-millenium evolution of the brand point to the introduction of co-axial technology, the re-emergence of in-house movement manufacture with the calibre 8500 series, the repositioning of the De Ville with innovative case designs, the early adoption of liquid metal and silicon technology, and even the ongoing establishment of Omega Boutiques as clear evidence of its upward trajectory.

The OMEGA Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the second series of skeletonised models released, the first appearing in 2006 with highly decorated finishes and a jewellery version set with baguette diamonds around the bezel. In this new limited edition collection of 18 pieces, the aesthetics are more minimalist with a hand polished silky adoucissage finish on the skeletonised and bevelled bridges. An exquisitely chamfered balance carraige and tourbillon mechanism, the use of contrasting titanium and gold metals and the finish on remaining movement parts combine to produce a very modern version of high art watchmaking.

In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. The titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch.

To create a skeletonised version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by cutting away any non-essential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike conventional production watches, each tourbillon piece is the work of one specialist who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the piece. No two pieces are exactly alike and all parts are engraved with the personal initials of the watchmaker on the underside of the tourbillon base to ensure that when a watch is returned to Omega for servicing it will be assigned to its original creator to be worked upon.

The watch features what in the old days would be called a "Mystery Dial". Because the tourbillon occupies centre stage, hands cannot be mounted centrally. And so, reminiscent of Zodiac watch dials of the 1960s, a pair of saphire crystal discs are driven by a system that connects with the extremities of the dics. Upon the separate discs are engraved the minute and hour hand and they appear to circle 'mysteriously' around the tourbillon like moons to a planet.

OMEGA’s exclusive COSC-certified Co-Axial calibre 2636 powers this series of eighteen pieces, housed in a platinum case on an alligator strap. The price is stratospheric for most and you could buy a Bentley Arnage for the same money!

Click on the above pictures for enlarged views

If you want to know more about Torbillions, click here and review the menu on the left-hand column.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Omega Constellation Baguette

Omega Constellation Baguette Watch
This one-of-a-kind Omega Constellation Baguette model showcases the fine art of jewellery case-making and the creation of ornamental horological artifacts of impeccable workmanship. Designed as an exhibition piece, the Baguette continues Omega’s engagement in the “Montre Bijoux” genre, a tradition that began with the award of a gold medal at the Swiss National Exhibition of 1896.

Often mistaken as ‘bling’ by lesser mortals, watches of this type demand to be appreciated for what they are - a means of extending the conceptual or technical boundaries of jewelery watchmaking. We may see such pieces as the gratuitous paraphernalia of Haute Couture and excess for the sake of excess, but just as Faberge eggs had no purpose other than to enchant owners with their beauty and exquisite craftsmanship, so do examples such as the Constellation Baguette.

Go beyond the glitter of the diamonds and you discover the true design structure of the watch. The entire case has been designed around the dial that displays a “supernova” pattern of beautifully cut and set Wesselton diamonds of matching colour and clarity radiating from a diamond clad star that sits in a universe of mother-of-pearl. Click on the picture above to see how each individual diamond has been especially cut and faceted to play its role in the overall design story – a total of a hundred and forty-six baguette and trapeze diamonds have been applied to the dial, each invisibly mounted so as to reinforce the three- dimensional effects of energy and line that shoot forth from the star.

In total, there are more than 30 carats of diamonds set into the white gold Constellation Baguette. Omega has not yet made it clear whether it will sell the watch after its exhibition days are over, but one can’t foresee a shortage of buyers for this outstanding example of montre bijoux should it be offered.

Almost incidentally, the watch is powered by a member of Omega’s new in-house family of calibres, the ladies co-axial calibre 8421, designed for watches of smaller diameter. But in the instance of the Omega Constellation Baguette, horology gives way to design and the amazing craftsmanship exhibited in the execution of the concept.

Click here for a brochure with further illustrations of this piece.
To learn more about the art of stone setting in horology, click here

Friday, January 1, 2010

The Omega Co-Axial 8500 Series

Omega co-axial calibre 8500
The Omega co-axial 8500 series of calibres was released in 2007, a milestone in the history of the Omega brand.

The calibre 8500 is the base calibre for a family of movements that have been released progressively over the past two years and will culminate in the unveiling of the 14 ligne chronograph series. Individual calibres serve the following functions:

Annual Calendar, Calibre 8601 and 8611
Day/Date, Calibre 8602 and 8612
Big Date, Calibre 8603 and 8613
Power Reserve/Small Seconds, Calibre 8604 and 8614
GMT, Calibre 8605 and 8615
14 lignes Chronographs, calibre 9300 and 9301

This collection of in-house calibres exclusively dedicated to Omega watches digs deep into Omega's DNA and brings Omega full cycle in a process of rehabillitation and restoration to its former glory days.

Read the fuller story here

For an excellent review of the co-axial movement by British scientific horologist, Philip Woodward, please click here