Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar

The new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is about the closest thing you will see to line breeding in horology, for this Seamaster is a living embodiment of the genetic material that made the House of Omega such an unassailable presence in the world of production watchmaking during the halcyon nineteen-fifties and sixties.

Precision, ingenuity, quality, durability and style were the foundations upon which Omega’s reputation was originally built, and it’s gratifying to see a strong selection of these genes combine with today’s technology and meticulous production processes to create the Seamaster genotype we see in the Aqua Terra today. This is not hyperbole, but recognition of the long and restorative journey undertaken by Omega towards its true origins.

While some horological petrol-heads (a complimentary term that describes lovers of mechanical watches) have slated Omega’s Basel offerings this year as somewhat pedestrian, another way to view the company’s 2010 Basel releases is that of a year of consolidation: a year of building on a solid base of real accomplishment and innovation over the last decade. Let’s not forget the U.S. financial debacle and its impact on many of the boutique and less honorable Swiss brands, and let’s not forget that crises of this nature have a way of influencing trends and preferences. And so, we see prudence and circumspection reflected in the Omega 2010 portfolio – rightly so for any responsible watch producer.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is a natural outcome of this period of consolidation. Firstly, Omega recognises that that the Aqua Terra collection is a favourite amongst those who know their watches and are impressed by good engineering, good design and thoughtful innovation. Secondly, the AT Annual Calendar is powered by the in house Co-Axial 8601/8611 series (see here for a review of this family of calibres). Thirdly, the classic design of this model means that, unlike some of the more grotesque tool watches on offer across the brands today, the Aqua Terra is a stayer, and a likely collectible of the future.

The AT Annual calendar has authentic and not faddish style. Let’s explore the aesthetics of the bi-colour stainless steel and 18k pink gold model. The matt black dial is machined to create the appearance of decking, described by Omega as a “teak concept”. The surface of the dial has been radially brushed and the pink gold dial furniture strongly etched in a linear adoucissage finish. Sculpted in a contemporary asymmetric fashion, the date surround compliments the blunted applied arrow head hour markers beautifully. The classic Omega symbol and logo are applied in pink gold and all lettering is expertly embossed. A faceted and blunted Dauphine hour hand is contrasted by arrow-headed minute hand and second sweep. This uncluttered but strong union of design features renders a pleasing, timeless and sophisticated effect.

The case is an understatement. The polished pink gold bezel is offset by a brushed finish on the case body with a classic black polish chamfer that curls around the lugs, referencing four decades of case design of the Seamaster marque. A semi-recessed crown completes this elegant and subtle case design.

As mentioned earlier, The AT Annual calendar is powered by the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8601/8611. It is a high-precision COSC-certified chronometer that features the additional functionality of an instantaneous jump annual calendar complication. The movement automatically recognises months with 30 and 31 days and needs to be manually corrected only once a year, on March 1st. It also features an exclusive Si 14 balance spring that eliminates issues of magnetism and results in minimal loss of recovery of oscillating performance of the balance wheel when subjected to disturbances or shocks.

Perhaps in hindsight the Aqua Terra Annual Calendar will be viewed by collectors as a milestone piece, a watch that represented the very DNA of a revived and revitalised Omega manufactory.

Omega Constellation Double Eagle Four-Counter Co-Axial

This latest Omega Constellation launched at Basel 2010 is a Constellation Double Eagle Co-Axial with four counters staggered across the centre of the dial, a flow-on design from the Beijing Olympics Speedmaster that featured a similar but first-time-ever five counter configuration.

The Speedmaster counters – entwined Olympic rings - were in tribute to the Olympic tradition and contributed to a truly stunning piece of dial design. So, once having pushed the envelope, it was always a possibility that Omega designers would return to this idea and modify it for inclusion in other Piguet—based calibre 3xxx lines……

But a Constellation???…And using an aggressive black, red and silver livery more suited to the wrist of a Hell’s Angel’s sergeant-at-arms than snuggling the delicate and refined styloideus ulnae of a fully paid up member of the Beverly Hills Country Club????

Contrary to the opinions of some, many Omega aficionados enjoy the more ‘edgy’ styling of the Double Eagle family- even the chequered dial when framed in a gold case - but the question needs to be asked, couldn’t Omega designers have found a better home for this ‘look’ than the Double Eagle? Perhaps as a new signature piece in the Speedmaster range?

For some time now, Omega has aligned some of the Constellation family with the game of golf, particularly competition golf, hence the Double Eagle appellation. We’re not talking public golf courses here, but the kind of golf courses that offer membership to those who can actually afford the price of one of these watches, and that’s where this Double Eagle appears to fail the positioning test. It’s sporty for sure, but ‘golfy’, country clubby, neo-patrician and ‘let’s go for cruise in the Bentley’, it ain’t.

This new Double Eage four-counters is powered by the co-Axial calibre 3890, is a COSC-certified chronometer and has integrated black rubber strap with a satin-brushed stainless steel foldover clasp.

The dial offers eighteen carat white gold faceted hour markers, faceted and truncated Dauphine hands, and applied OMEGA symbol and name. Above the four counter configuration is a window revealing the day of the week. A date window at 6 o’clock completes the dial, which is protected by a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The screw-in transparent sapphire crystal case back gives you an eyeful of the well-finished movement and the case is equipped with a black aluminium bezel with silver Arabic numerals that is more at home on a diving watch than on the back nine. This is divided by the signature Constellation ‘claws’.

The Constellation Double Eagle Four-Counters was meant to express a distinctive flair. Distinctive the dial is, but miscast in the Constellation range.

Click on the pictures above for larger views

Omega Universal User Manual

Omega's universal users' manual is a useful handbook for those interested in the specifications, operating instructions, precision tolerances and other information specific to Omega calibres.

The publication covers all current Omega calibres, canvasses various other special watch features such as helium valves and bezels and even details the COSC process under which all Omega mechanical chronometers are subjected.

It also works as a pre-purchase companion for Omega enthusiasts who wish to weigh up the features of different Omega models.

Click here for a pdf file

The Omega Skeletonised Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition

The concept of the Omega Central Torbillon first appeared in 1994 when Andre Beyner and Mauritz Grimm created the first tourbillion mechanism ever placed in the very centre of the movement. Launched to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Omega brand name, Omega has continued the production of these fine horological pieces in a range of jewelled, grand luxe and simpler forms ever since.

The latest offering coming from the company that manufactured one of the world’s first tourbillon wristwatches in 1947 marks yet another milestone in Omega’s long-term strategy to regain its place as Switzerland’s premier luxury mass-production brand. Students of the post-millenium evolution of the brand point to the introduction of co-axial technology, the re-emergence of in-house movement manufacture with the calibre 8500 series, the repositioning of the De Ville with innovative case designs, the early adoption of liquid metal and silicon technology, and even the ongoing establishment of Omega Boutiques as clear evidence of its upward trajectory.

The OMEGA Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the second series of skeletonised models released, the first appearing in 2006 with highly decorated finishes and a jewellery version set with baguette diamonds around the bezel. In this new limited edition collection of 18 pieces, the aesthetics are more minimalist with a hand polished silky adoucissage finish on the skeletonised and bevelled bridges. An exquisitely chamfered balance carraige and tourbillon mechanism, the use of contrasting titanium and gold metals and the finish on remaining movement parts combine to produce a very modern version of high art watchmaking.

In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. The titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch.

To create a skeletonised version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by cutting away any non-essential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike conventional production watches, each tourbillon piece is the work of one specialist who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the piece. No two pieces are exactly alike and all parts are engraved with the personal initials of the watchmaker on the underside of the tourbillon base to ensure that when a watch is returned to Omega for servicing it will be assigned to its original creator to be worked upon.

The watch features what in the old days would be called a "Mystery Dial". Because the tourbillon occupies centre stage, hands cannot be mounted centrally. And so, reminiscent of Zodiac watch dials of the 1960s, a pair of saphire crystal discs are driven by a system that connects with the extremities of the dics. Upon the separate discs are engraved the minute and hour hand and they appear to circle 'mysteriously' around the tourbillon like moons to a planet.

OMEGA’s exclusive COSC-certified Co-Axial calibre 2636 powers this series of eighteen pieces, housed in a platinum case on an alligator strap. The price is stratospheric for most and you could buy a Bentley Arnage for the same money!

Click on the above pictures for enlarged views

If you want to know more about Torbillions, click here and review the menu on the left-hand column.

Omega Constellation Baguette

This one-of-a-kind Omega Constellation Baguette model showcases the fine art of jewellery case-making and the creation of ornamental horological artifacts of impeccable workmanship. Designed as an exhibition piece, the Baguette continues Omega’s engagement in the “Montre Bijoux” genre, a tradition that began with the award of a gold medal at the Swiss National Exhibition of 1896.

Often mistaken as ‘bling’ by lesser mortals, watches of this type demand to be appreciated for what they are - a means of extending the conceptual or technical boundaries of jewelery watchmaking. We may see such pieces as the gratuitous paraphernalia of Haute Couture and excess for the sake of excess, but just as Faberge eggs had no purpose other than to enchant owners with their beauty and exquisite craftsmanship, so do examples such as the Constellation Baguette.

Go beyond the glitter of the diamonds and you discover the true design structure of the watch. The entire case has been designed around the dial that displays a “supernova” pattern of beautifully cut and set Wesselton diamonds of matching colour and clarity radiating from a diamond clad star that sits in a universe of mother-of-pearl. Click on the picture above to see how each individual diamond has been especially cut and faceted to play its role in the overall design story – a total of a hundred and forty-six baguette and trapeze diamonds have been applied to the dial, each invisibly mounted so as to reinforce the three- dimensional effects of energy and line that shoot forth from the star.

In total, there are more than 30 carats of diamonds set into the white gold Constellation Baguette. Omega has not yet made it clear whether it will sell the watch after its exhibition days are over, but one can’t foresee a shortage of buyers for this outstanding example of montre bijoux should it be offered.

Almost incidentally, the watch is powered by a member of Omega’s new in-house family of calibres, the ladies co-axial calibre 8421, designed for watches of smaller diameter. But in the instance of the Omega Constellation Baguette, horology gives way to design and the amazing craftsmanship exhibited in the execution of the concept.

Click here for a brochure with further illustrations of this piece.

To learn more about the art of stone setting in horology, click here

The Omega Co-Axial 8500 Series

The Omega co-axial 8500 series of calibres was released in 2007, a milestone in the history of the Omega brand.

The calibre 8500 is the base calibre for a family of movements that have been released progressively over the past two years and will culminate in the unveiling of the 14 ligne chronograph series. Individual calibres serve the following functions:

Annual Calendar, Calibre 8601 and 8611

Day/Date, Calibre 8602 and 8612

Big Date, Calibre 8603 and 8613

Power Reserve/Small Seconds, Calibre 8604 and 8614

GMT, Calibre 8605 and 8615

14 lignes Chronographs, calibre 9300 and 9301

This collection of in-house calibres exclusively dedicated to Omega watches digs deep into Omega's DNA and brings Omega full cycle in a process of rehabillitation and restoration to its former glory days.

Read the fuller story here

For an excellent review of the co-axial movement by British scientific horologist, Philip Woodward, please click here

Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch

Limited Edition of 1,941 Pieces

This ninth Omega model in the Museum Collection bears the appellation “Milestone 41”, a curious name to call a replica of model CK 2080 that was originally launched in 1938. The ‘milestone’ part of the description has me intrigued as well. Does it refer to the 50,000 CHF price paid at Antiquorum 2007 for the 1941 delivered watch that inspired this homage piece? (see first picture above) 

No matter, because the decision to honour this essentially military chrono-tachy-telemeter piece was an excellent choice. Said to be popular with high-ranking officers during WW2, the original was powered by a calibre 33.3 CHRO T1 manufactured by Omega’s stable-mate, Lemania. Acquired by Omega during the Great depression, Lemania movements went on to power some of the most famous chronographs Omega ever produced.

The original olive button chronograph was dapper looking to say the least. The reset pusher was part of the functionality of the crown, and the case, with triple mobile lugs attached to a nicely chamfered hood, gave the watch a blue-blooded, military feel. The design conjures up dreams of waxed mustaches, flying leathers, being behind the joystick of a Spitfire, dropping a load on those confounded Jerries and honking and hee-hawing over some droll riposte in the officers' mess!

The original 37.5 by 12mm case was made of stainless steel, however Omega has enlarged the case by .5mm and fashioned it out of 18 karat white gold. The Milestone 41 is powered by a hand-wound Omega calibre 3202, a work-up of the base Piguet calibre 1283 and similar to the engine that powers number three in the Museum Collection, the Officers Watch. It is a COSC certified chronometer fitted out with Omega’s proprietary co-axial escapement system.

I would have liked to have seen the Lemania-based calibre 1861 under the bonnet of this piece as it would have maintained a link with the Lemania heritage of the original. Tough as old boots, the calibre 1861 is a direct descendant of the famous calibre 321, and to compare it to the finer and more delicate Piguet-based 3203 would be like standing a builder’s labourer alongside a ballet dancer. But, I suppose this illustrious member of the Omega Museum Collection will spend more time in its elegant box than bouncing about in a theatre of war as did the original and so robustness isn’t part of the brief.

The dial is a marvel, varnished black, replicating the original telemetric scale on its first outer ring. It features a minute track on its second outer ring and a “snail” tachymetric scale on the inner ring based on 1000 units per hour. The hour indexes and 12 and 6 numbers are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Comparing old with new, it has to be said that Omega has faithfully replicated the most alluring features of the vintage piece, and that is very much part of the attraction of the Milestone 41. While in no way a daily banger, this museum collection wonder will look as good in an opera box as it would in a Wall Street bull pit.

Click on the photographs for enlarged view