The Omega De Ville Hour Vision Blue

The Omega De Ville Hour Vision family has a newly minted addition, the Hour Vision Blue, which certainly adds a bit of colour to the somewhat dour brown, silver and black dial offerings previously available. While some De Ville dials could be seen as conservative or unremarkable, the convergence of excellent 1950’s derivative design of the 41mm transparent case body, the outstanding beauty and engineering of the calibre 8500 series movement and sophisticated appointments on the dusty blue dial transform this latest iteration of the Hour Vision into something very special.

With trends dictating more black in today’s fashion than there ever was in Joseph Heller’s humour, this watch can be worn across the day and night without embarrassment. It also compliments the more ‘adventurous’ choices of fabric colour favoured in business wear, such as ash grey, charcoal and navy blue, and holds its own with the camel, beiges, khakis and greys worn casually on the weekend. We are truly so adventurous in our fashion choices these days – aren’t we?

Omega also took the opportunity to associate the release of the Hour Vision Blue with a worthy piece of philanthropism by committing to donate a minimum of a million dollars over four years to the international eye care organisation, ORBIS. This organisation of specialists and medicos operates in more than eighty less-developed countries, offering treatment for a range of poverty-related eye conditions that lead to blindness, and it also trains local doctors in oculoplastic surgery. Couldn’t think of a better cause, so more power to Omega’s elbow for its generosity.

But, did they have to bring Daniel Craig into this? I realise that it’s de rigueur for even minor Hollywood hacks to adopt a charity and be associated with ‘good works’ – it’s considered beneficial for career and celebrity maintenance - but, I find it a curious that Omega would link this woody little British actor with the steroidal scowl to the De Ville collection, particularly after having invested a mozza in Seamaster product association with the Bond character. Anyway, let’s forget the hype, give Omega ten heavenly credits for helping ORBIS, forget about Daniel Craig and focus on this excellent watch.

Technically, all the earlier praise of the Hour Vision can be heaped on the Blue. The calibre 8500 power plant features the three-level co-axial upgrade, allowing for autonomous adjustment of the hour hand, an especially nifty feature for those who travel across time zones. The movement is chronometer certified and the case is water resistant to a hundred metres.

The dusty blue dial is finished in the customary ‘sun-brushed’ manner, allowing the light to play beautifully on the four-rimmed raised platform, upon which sit 18 karat white gold facetted markers in the tapered and blunted Hour Vision style. The luminous hands continue the tapered design story with a longer centre sweep reaching out to the edge of the chapter ring. An understated date aperture finishes off this subtle and classic dial design.

The whole combination - stainless steel case, blue dial with white gold dial furniture and black leather strap - gives the Hour Vision collection the depth it needed, and, in the process, gave birth to a true classic.

Click on the  pictures for a magnified view 

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL is the perfect accessory for those whose tailoring bears the same label. Making no distinction between walls of muscle or tubs of lard, this AT just cries out to embellish a wrist that would match the circumference of Rush Limbaugh’s head! 

Omega literature declares that the XXL has a “bold” 49.2 mm case (‘Bold’ is the current horological euphemism for ‘ridiculous’ or ‘otherwise indescribable’). The case is a dead-ringer of the limited edition Railmaster colossus that shocked, or awed, depending on one’s outlook, the educated watch-buying public a few years ago, only this time it sports the AT livery.

That having been said, the Aqua Terra dial, combined with a sub-dial registering seconds, certainly offers a very clean design narrative and exceptional aesthetics, further flattered by brushed, polished and faceted hands with an attractive broad-arrow minute hand. The hands and the sharp arrowhead markers have super-Luminova inserts, which, to me, compromises the beauty of the dial and consigns the piece to a shadow-land of ambiguous identity. When, and where, would one wear this watch?

The power plant is interesting and has a lineage dating back to hunter-cased pocket watches of the nineteen-fifties, and, in fact, was designed for that purpose. The Omega chronometer certified calibre 2211A is sourced from an ETA calibre 6498 ebauche that was originally designed for pocket watches by the August Raymond SA company Unitas. This company was a casualty of what we now describe as the quartz and throwaway watch crisis of the late 1970s and when Ebauches S.A. absorbed Unitas, Valljoux and other manufacturers within ETA S.A and finally came under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, many of the original ebauche names and calibre numbers were retained. The tools and related equipment for the Unitas 6498 hunter pocket watch movement became the property of the Swatch Group.

So, the calibre 2211A has a glorious history and is of excellent and proven design. (For a nice little 'riff' on this calibre, click here) Even in its more basic ebauche form it is easy to regulate to chronometer specifications. The seventeen jewel hand-wind movement has deep grain snailing on nicely anglaged bridges (which is an interesting departure from the more common Geneva wave design) and functional finish is excellent. This movement is undoubtedly a classic, and while it provides power for many a brand name, including some Panerais, I would have liked to see this 36.6mm movement in a 41mm  or 42mm case.  

The size of the AT XXL reminds me of the way furniture design went during the Victorian era: from relatively interesting and sophisticated lines and embellishments in the early period to more fruit than on Carmen Miranda’s head in the late period. It seems that human nature dictates that a design trend must be blown out to the point of absurdity before a new counter-trend emerges, and maybe the 49.4mm XXL represents a turning point. But, it still leaves us with the question, who will wear a watch of this size? Japanese sumo wrestlers, steroid-addled body builders, poor little men with a size complex, the criminally obese, for sure, but who else with an ounce of urbanity would touch it?

The Evolving Designs of the Omega Constellation

The Constellation is often derided by the WIS (watch idiot savant) community as ‘dated’. This is particularly the case amongst tool watch devotees and others who favour more aggressive XL sized cases or those who hanker for the beautifully engineered and designed Constellations of the nine-fifties and sixties. But, despite the less than enthusiastic support amongst collectors of contemporary Omega watches, more high-end watch buyers purchase a Constellation than any other Omega series.

If the Omega Constellation collection was a brand in and of itself, it would be the fourth largest selling brand in the world!

The main supporters of the Constellation are women and buyers from the Orient: Japan, India, China and other Tiger economies just love ‘em. ....and it’s all because of the claws. (Click here for an essay on Carol Didisheim, the creator of this famous design)

The now ornamental claws or “griffes” on the Constellation case are one of the most recognisable watch design features on the globe. Unlike some western cultures, Oriental buyers appear to be more partial to dress and jewellery watches and are often more keenly attentive to the role brands play in communicating rank, wealth and position. In Asia, the distinctive claws of the Omega Constellation summon instant associations of brand eminence, sophistication and exclusivity, which suit the up-and-coming and younger demographics down to a tee.

So, don’t imagine that Omega will be departing from the classic Constellation design anytime soon. With such strong iconography, the Constellation with its unique claws and bezel is one of the most visible status watches in the oriental market, and its designs and positioning will remain static as long as it continues to enrich Omega’s coffers.

The Constellation design has been refreshed on a number of occasions since the advent of the original Manhattan models, the latest of which was just over a year ago. The case size of the mens model was increased to 38mm and the visible bridges and oscillating mass of the movement, decorated with Geneva waves in arabesque, can be seen through the crystal case-back.

Shown above is the mens model 123.20.38.21.13.001 in steel and red gold. An attractive and uncluttered brown dial - brushed in a radial fashion that emanates from the Constellation star - is complemented by truncated dagger minute and hour hands and chunky applied red gold hour markers. A larger rounded bezel with engraved roman numerals is anchored by the flatter and enlarged claws, giving the tonneau case a more aggressive and contemporary look. Under the dial is the exclusive Omega calibre 8500 co-axial movement which is proving to be one of the best series movements produced in the new millennium.

Priced at around $8000.00 USD or as little as $6300.00 at some on-line outlets, the new 38mm series Constellation offers a blend of excellent horology and a legendary design story.

New In-House Omega Chronograph Movement Launches at Baselworld 2011

Having alluded earlier this year to a production date of 2011, Steven Urquhart, Omega’s CEO, has confirmed  during a series of public statements this month that the long-awaited in-house chronograph movement will make its debut at Baselworld next year .

The new chronograph mechanism will not piggyback on top of a calibre 8500 series movement, and will be new from the bottom plate up. It will however copy the 8500's double-barrel power system, will incorporate three level coaxial technology and retain the now familiar column wheel configuration.

This new 14 lignes calibre with a power reserve of sixty hours – slated to be called the 9300 and 9301 - will replace the somewhat effete Piguet chronograph movements in all men’s watches. The Piguet 3313 will be enhanced with three-level co-axial technology and will find a home in women’s chronographs. Having once observed that weighing the mighty calibre 1861 against the Piguet chronographs was like comparing a builder’s labourer to a ballet dancer, I applaud the decision to build a more robust men’s chronograph movement.

Omega has acknowledged the need for a more sturdy chronograph movement with an emphasis on quality and reliability, the subtext of which is that the Piguet series did not live up to such benchmarks. The decision is yet another signal of Omega’s trajectory towards a manufacturing ethos that gave the brand such an unassailable reputation in production watchmaking in the nineteen-fifties and sixties.

I think that Omega aficionados will have much to anticipate at Baselworld next year.

Omega Coaxial Technology

Omega's introduction of the Co-Axial escapement in 1999 signaled the beginning of a revolution in innovation of escapement technology. Since this bold move by Omega, other watch companies have garnered the courage and resources to attempt their own improvements on the traditional Swiss lever escapement with varying degrees of success.

With the introduction of the exclusive Co-Axial calibre 8500 series in 2007, Omega can rightly claim to have achieved an impressive union of escapement design and watchmaking excellence that delivers better chronometric performance than any other 'production' watch movement in the world.

The short video below follows the production process of the formidable calibre 8500 series movements.

Omega Aqua Terra Jewellery Collection

These days there's no such thing, strictly, as an evening watch. The standards of formality have relaxed so markedly that the definition of formal wear has become tortuously ambiguous over the last three decades. It’s almost at the point where you could roll up at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and bog into the tasting menu wearing little more than designer jeans and a Ploprof on your wrist!!

Wearing tool watches to black tie events and dress watches to work is commonplace…and in some ways more’s the pity. Men just don’t get as many opportunities anymore to climb into a penguin suit, don a precious metal watch, hang an elegant woman off their arm and mingle with polite society. Not that this new informality is particularly lamentable, but the joys of “dressing up” are few and far between these days.

To add to the ambiguity, watch companies have been transforming tool watches (watches designed and engineered to perform a particular function or in a designated environment) into dress watches and indeed dress watches into tool watches – witness the Omega Constellation Double-Eagle range (Talk about a design code identity crisis). And now the lines are to be blurred further with the release of the Aqua Terra jewellery range.

I’m a great fan of the Omega Aqua Terra collection, both from the aesthetic and horological viewpoint. Since I have waxed lyrically on the case lines and design elements of the AT previously, we will explore other features of this newly released series. To start with, Omega has taken a commonsense approach to case size. Discerning some movement in the market towards cases that do not rival the diameter of Dawn French’s backside, Omega has sized the case sensibly at 38.5mm. It’s hardly small by today's standards, but cleverly positioned in the dead middle of the size-fashion continuum.

The dial looks appealing with the Aqua-Terra’s signature teak design finished in black lacquer. The faceted arrow-head markers are dotted with eleven single cut diamonds and there is a brushed 18 Karat gold applied date window at 3 o'clock. The broad arrow minute hand, truncated Dauphine hour hand and arrowhead sweep draw deeply from Omega’s history and the overall effect of dial and hands is that of deliberately understated luxury.

The watch is presented on either a brushed 18 karat gold bracelet with Omega’s patented screw-and-pin system and a safety clasp or a black alligator leather strap with a fold-over clasp. A stainless steel version is also available.

The bezel is paved set with 52 full-cut diamonds and screams money or at least access to an excellent credit line. Overall, when comparing apples with apples, or jewellery watches with jewellery watches, the Aqua Terra has a timeless refinement about it and shapes up very well as an heirloom watch. Couple stylish design with the excellent calibre 8500 series under the dial and you have an aristocratic member of the montre bijoux class of watches.

The market niche for this collection? Women for sure, but I can also see half the Chinese Politburo salivating over these watches. A fair number of the more effete varieties of fashionisti would stab each other in the back for one and wealthy dudes with no sexual identity issues will wear them without self-consciousness. And if you add the usual suspects like gansta rappers, hip-hoppers, crack cocaine lords and Ryan Seacrest clones, there will be no shortages of takers.

Click on the pictures for magnified view

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m White Dial - Another Great White?

The Omega "Great White" Seamaster GMT Chronometer Ref: 2538.20 was a popular model amongst dive watch aficionados, made more-so after Omega decided to discontinue the line. For those who suffered remorse over not acquiring a Great White while it was in production, the “Greater than Great White” version of the Ploprof 1200m should extinguish any such regrets……at more than double the investment!

Ploprof’s design code is undoubtedly the most distinctive of any dive watch on the market, and the polished, lacquered white dial with applied polished Omega symbol and logo will do much to establish it in the world of fad and fashion. The white Ploprof is still a serious bit of kit for the professional diver, however, its idiosyncratic lines, visual appeal and impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm have already ensured its migration to the emaciated wrists of androgynes who walk the catwalks of high fashion, as it has their more beefy brethren who insist time-telling accessories be at least the size of New Hampshire.

The watch, sporting a white bi-directional locking bezel with chrome-coated Arabic numerals, snow white dial with super-Lume polished indexes has an over-sized minute hand crafted from orange anodised aluminium and is coated with white Super-Lume for legibility, as are the varnished hour and seconds hands.

While the white dial softens some of its aggression, the raw, retro-industrial quality of the Ploprof case design means that the nearest to water many Ploprofs will ever get is a sudden downpour, and that’s fine. For the Ploprof “Greater than Great White” is an amazing piece of hardware that demands a wider audience.

For a review of the original re-released Ploprof, click here